Lunch for Two

The queue starts forming at approximately ten minutes to one outside of Cal Pep. One of the waiters emerges at one o'clock sharp, greets several of the regulars at the front of the line, then opens the garage door to a narrow seafood bar that ends in a few tables.

The tourists enter hesitantly. There's no menu at the bar. The waiters behind the bar will concoct some tapas for the tourists (fried artichokes), then steer them toward the fresh fish or "mariscos" (shellfish).

Upon walking into Cal Pep, I was shooed to a seat at the bar next to a gentlemen of a certain age. The waiter offered me the tapas, and I asked for "gambas" (shrimp). The waiter pointed to five inch long, bright red gambas and told me they were expensive, 7 Euros a piece, but there were cheaper ones. I asked for the cheaper ones. At which point, the gentleman next to me said, "No, she will have the best. To share with me. And, a bottle of Cava, please".

To the great amusement of the waiters he bought me lunch. One of the waiters said to me, "He's rich and has great taste. What more could you want?" The shrimp were coated in rough sea salt with a sharp and sweet taste. The gentlemen left promptly at two o'clock for his domino game. I lingered to sip my cafe cortado (espresso with a dash of milk) and wonder at the kindness.